Taking climbing photos can be frustrating to say the least. Anyone who’s taken a few climbing pictures has probably noticed that either the climber’s face turns out very dark, or the sky in the background turns completely white. This balance of getting the correct exposure of the climber without blowing out the background is tricky. Here’s some examples of each extreme:
What happened to that nice blue sky?…
Sorry Eddie, your face looks like it was consumed by a black hole…
So what do you do? Well… usually I adjust my exposure so you can see the climber, maybe slightly under exposed. Then I’ll do my best to crop as much of the over exposed sections out later. Like so…
It’s not horrible, but it’s not great either. A better solution is to expose the photo for the background, then add a flash into the mix to light up the climber. I’ve just started doing this with limited success so far:
Climbing shoes are expensive! I never thought I would ever spend so much on a PAIR OF SHOES. To make it worse, they wear out much faster than regular shoes.
The best place to buy cheap climbing shoes, hands down, is the REI garage sale. Here in Phoenix, both of the REI stores have bi-annual garage sales where anything that was returned gets sold as ridiculous prices. Slightly used shoes are sold for $20. Almost new shoes are sold for $40. Now, when I say slightly used, I mean VERY slightly… you can tell they’re used, but they have probably 90% rubber left on them. And when i say almost new, I mean you cannot tell they were ever worn.
I’ll pick up 5 or 6 pairs of climbing shoes for the price of one new pair. You can’t be super picky on brands or models, but sometimes you’ll luck out with pairs of Katanas or Muiras. Most of the time, I’ll get lots of Evolv Evos and Deifys which I am totally happy with for the price!
There are plenty of pre-made personal anchors out there that you can buy. But why spend the extra money when you can make your own for a fraction of the cost.
Use two different color slings, it makes it easier to tell the right personal anchor from the left.
The slings will have a small hard sewn section which creates the loop, try to get this sewn section in the biggest loop but as close to the first knot as possible. This will keep it out of the way.
Use small locking biners, when clipping the anchors you want to have as much space as possible.
Use biners with key lock noses, this will make unclipping snag free which is nice when you’re trying to get onto repel.
Tonight, from 7-10 a group of ASU Interior Design student will be holding an event to raise money for victims of domestic violence. It’s a climbing event held at the Phoenix Rock Gym. It should be a fun. I’ll be there taking pictures, and a friend of mine will be DJ’ing. If you’re looking for something to do tonight and you want to boost your karma points, you should stop by. Here’s more details:
Climb for a Cause!!!
Rock climb for Chairity as your complete entrance fee will raise money for victims of domestic violence!
4th year Interior Design students at
Arizona State University:
- create a chair that encompasses the mission of The Family Advocacy Center while promoting awareness of domestic violence
- builds a chair that is inspired by an artist or artistic movement
- raise money or use donated supplies/services to build the chair The chairs will be auctioned off in Spring 2010 at the annual CHAIRity gala where all proceeds benefit The City of Phoenix Family Advocacy Center
The chairs will be auctioned off in Spring 2010 at the annual CHAIRity gala where all proceeds benefit The City of Phoenix Family Advocacy Center
September 26th
7pm – 10pm
Phoenix Rock Gym
1353 E. University Dr.
Tempe, AZ 85281
only
$ 5 without gear
$ 10 with rental gear
Cash or Check accepted only
Enter raffle and win!
For more information contact Elena Reiche
602.460.6704 or email ejreiche@asu.edu
Marty Karabin is a local climbing legend and a really nice guy to boot. He’s put up hundreds of routes and published lots of guidebooks as well. He’s brought me to secret crags, and even taught me how to bolt a route.
Unfortunately, Marty’s fallen on some hard times and is in need of financial support for medical bills. I’ll let Greg Opland’s post on mountain project explain the details:
First off, Marty is alive, so this isn’t a horrible post.
Too many of those lately.
But, Marty was bouldering last week up by Salt Lake City while he was there for the OR show, and cratered into the pads. They saved his head and shoulders, but his leg augered in under him and he came out with a badly broken femur. He was in the hospital for a bit while they plated and screwed his leg back together, but he is expected to make a full recovery. He is returning to Phoenix sometime today.
Now for the bad part… Marty didn’t have medical insurance. Friends have set up an account in case other friends and partners in the community want to donate to help him out with what I’m sure are pretty horrendous medical bills. I believe the PRG guys are working on a couple of fund raiser projects as well, so stay tuned for info on those. Marty has spent a load of his own money over the years putting up a boatload of great routes in the Phoenix area (and elsewhere), so maybe this is a good time for some of us to pony up and help him out.
If you’d like to help Marty out, here’s the account info:
Marty Karabin Recovery Fun
Wells Fargo
Name on the account: Robert Olson
Acct Number: 9613232793
Note: To donate to the account, you need to provide the name on the account and the account number. The name on the account (because he set it up) is Robert Olson.
Here’s a couple of pictures of poor Marty recovering…
Flashes can be so much fun! Especially when you get them off the camera and get the lighting on your subject from a different angle than you’re taking the photograph from. Built in flashes are for suckers!
A month or so ago I was at PRG and came across a flier asking for people to participate in a survey of nutrition for climbers. It sounded interesting and I’m always up for helping fellow climbers in endeavors like this.
When I went to the url on the flier I found not only the survey, but a whole blog dedicated to “Sport nutrition for rock climbing”! Sweet sauce! This is the first online resource that I’ve found for climbing nutrition outside of various informal forum posts. There aren’t may blog posts yet, but what’s there is gold. I’ve learned about oxidative stress, good practices for hydration, and recipes for great climbing meals.
A friend, and local climber/biker to the Phoenix area, Casey Kelso was diagnosed with a rare form of bone cancer. To make matters worse, Casey’s medical insurance IS NOT paying for his treatment! This Sunday, the Phoenix climbing community is coming together to raise money for Casey. Phoenix Rock Gym is waiving all entrance and equipment rental fees. They will be accepting donations to go toward Casey’s chemo fund. There will also be a raffle and auction to help raise money.
So if you’re a climber, you would like to try climbing, or just want to support a fellow human being during a hard time, PLEASE join us at PRG on Sunday the 11th from 7pm-10pm. Have fun, climb, maybe get some swag, and do something to help a climber in need.
Today I bring you the Wenny Awards. The annual Wenny Awards are given out to climbs I’ve done in the past year. The categories change every year, and the criteria for judging is completely biased. Without further ado, I give you the winners:
Most devious crux: Kor-Ingalls
I didn’t know I was at the crux until I was in the air!
Worst approach: Snake Dike Most run-out: Snake Dike Only route I bailed off of: Snake Dike
No… I didn’t bail off of it because of the runout. After going through that horrible hike, and climbing five pitches of pretty boring runout climbing it started to rain on us
Biggest shit your pants move: North Face/West Crack of Oak Creek Spire
The five plus foot jump across the void from the summit of the lower spire onto the wall of taller spire has to be the scariest single moment of my climbing career.
Scariest pitch: pitch 4 of Stolen Chimney
This was some intense exposure with a crazy summit.
Most hilarious: Community Pillar
I didn’t know climbing could be so funny!
Best crack: The Prow
This is a super cool route with neat face-climbing-like movement. I’ve only TR’ed it, but I want to go back and try for a send!
Most surprising flash: The Bat Cave
Super cool problem with TONS of pockets. It’s a miracle that I hit the right pockets on my first try.
Most uncomfortable seat: Traitor Horn
It looked good from the belay, but when you get up there it’s like trying to sit on a greased pig.
Most mosquitos: Matthes Crest
The mosquitoes were really on the approach… the long, long, long approach. They came in SWARMS! Seriously, reapplying bug repellent kept them off your skin, but they just hovered around you. Blood thirsty little bastards!
Hey Misty, you might like this shirt too:
