best and worst routes of 2008
Today I bring you the Wenny Awards. The annual Wenny Awards are given out to climbs I’ve done in the past year. The categories change every year, and the criteria for judging is completely biased. Without further ado, I give you the winners:
Most devious crux: Kor-Ingalls
I didn’t know I was at the crux until I was in the air!

Worst approach: Snake Dike
Most run-out: Snake Dike
Only route I bailed off of: Snake Dike
No… I didn’t bail off of it because of the runout. After going through that horrible hike, and climbing five pitches of pretty boring runout climbing it started to rain on us ![]()

Biggest shit your pants move: North Face/West Crack of Oak Creek Spire
The five plus foot jump across the void from the summit of the lower spire onto the wall of taller spire has to be the scariest single moment of my climbing career.

Scariest pitch: pitch 4 of Stolen Chimney
This was some intense exposure with a crazy summit.

Most hilarious: Community Pillar
I didn’t know climbing could be so funny!
Best crack: The Prow
This is a super cool route with neat face-climbing-like movement. I’ve only TR’ed it, but I want to go back and try for a send!

Most surprising flash: The Bat Cave
Super cool problem with TONS of pockets. It’s a miracle that I hit the right pockets on my first try.

Most uncomfortable seat: Traitor Horn
It looked good from the belay, but when you get up there it’s like trying to sit on a greased pig.

Worst rock: Rink-Kudo
Yeh, super shitty rock. Thought I was going to die. You can read more about it here.

Most mosquitos: Matthes Crest
The mosquitoes were really on the approach… the long, long, long approach. They came in SWARMS! Seriously, reapplying bug repellent kept them off your skin, but they just hovered around you. Blood thirsty little bastards!

Most proud to send: Regular Route of Higher Cathedral Spire
Total Valley test piece! Cool face climbing moves with super exposed climbing… my kinda climb.

… and last but not least …
Most phallic spire: Totem Pole
This erect piece of rock was hard! There was lots of sweating and grunting that left me tired as a dog.





















